Le Chou de Bruxelles – Sherbrooke/Montreal

Remember the lovely Quebecoise girls we met in San Sebastian? Well, turns out Gab’s parents own a restaurant in Sherbrooke, about 1.5 hours from Montreal. I promised her I would go (she wouldn’t be back by then) and once I told Cheyne about it, he was game. What a small world, huh? So we gathered up Duncan and Emilie and headed that way. About halfway into the journey, we were going to run out of gas, so Duncan exited and took a detour that led us through the untouched backcountry of Quebec. You better believe we had the windows down and were blasting Celine Dion. I heard SO MUCH Celine Dion on that trip. Sigh. We finally stumble upon a shabby gas station to which Cheyne pops out of the car to ask directions. After filling up, we are back on track and arrive at Le Chou de Bruxelles on that dark and stormy night.

We all settle on the four-course prix fixed menu. The appetizers offered some interesting choices, and as we were deciding, the conversation went something like this:

Cheyne: Mmhmm, sweetbreads. I’ll get that.

Erin: You like sweetbreads? (surprised)

Cheyne: Yeah, I love me some pan dulce! (Spanish, literally “sweet bread”)

Then there was a pause as I realized he had no idea what sweetbreads were. I pondered telling him at all. The devil on my right shoulder said to keep my mouth shut, what a hilarious adventure this would be! The angel on my left shoulder softly reminded me that this was my friend, and if I knew he was going astray, I should lead him back. It was a toss-up and the hamster wheel was cranking. In the end, I decided to not ruin his meal.

Erin (after a few moments): You know what that is right? Intestines. The thymus gland of an animal.

Cheyne: (aghast) Well isn’t that a wolf in sheep’s clothing!

In the end, he ordered them anyway. Cheers to him. Life is all about trying new things. I even had a few bites. And we managed to get through quite a bit of the plate before our minds took over and reminded us of what we were actually eating. It was then that we politely pushed the plate away.

It was here at this restaurant that I was able to use my newfound French phrase “tir bouchon s’il vous plait, beau garcon”. Worked like a charm. We SO got those wine bottles opened.

It was actually Gab’s brother who waited on us, so everyone (except me) had a grand time conversing with him and laughing in their all-knowing French ways. They were so smug.

Believe me, this is not some shameless plug for Le Chou de Bruxelles – trust me with complete sincerity that this had to have been one of the best meals in my entire life. And my dining companions agree. Even the salad was extraordinary! I don’t know how one can make a salad so deliciously delectable, but they did. The only explanation is crack. Crack always does this to me.

We kind of felt like royalty, having so many courses. They even brought out lime sorbet in the middle to cleanse our palates! It was kind of a big deal.

In true food blog failure, I forgot what exactly I ordered. But I think it was lamb. I was too busy eating to be honest.

Cheyne went for the mussels from Brussels. Did you know that you were supposed to use the shell as your mussel fork??? We learned that that night. Education is delicious.

For dessert, Olivier offered to make us a special plate of small portions of everything they had on the menu. Sold. It was only when he came out with 2 plates and placed one in front of me, one in front of Emilie, that we realized with a bit of trepidation that they made these “small portions” for every single person at the table. Oh holy Jesus.

We were there for 4 hours!!! We definitely were the last ones there, finishing off our 3 (0r was it 4?) bottles of wine. Did I mention it’s BYOB with no corkage fee? Holla! Please please please….I implore you – if you are in the Montreal/Sherbrooke area, you MUST go to Le Chou de Bruxelles. It’s the loveliest dining experience you will ever have. And ask for Gabrielle or Olivier to serve you and tell ‘em I sent ya 🙂

nom nom nom

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Breakfast in Montreal

Breakfast outings are some of my favorites, when I can manage to get up early enough…

St. Viateur Bagels

Has anyone ever had a la baba aux pommes? Let me tell you something: Cheyne is like a homing pigeon for Starbucks. No matter where you are, he will find one and lead you there like a moth to a flame.

One of our adventures involved trolling the underground mall for god knows what. We all know I was not the one who initiated this trip. When we stumble upon the Starbucks, Cheyne gasps with joy upon seeing one of these little jewels and insists that we get one to share.

Heaven. And only found in Canada. Why Canada? Why??

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Montreal, mon ami

The next morning involved a bike tour of the city…

…and then lunch at Jardin Nelson. This is why we’re best friends. I wanted to live there. And he knew that. We ate outside (of course) and there was a live jazz band (for lunch!) and the biggest patio umbrellas I’ve ever seen. I quite thought someone had built this place especially for me.

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Montreal, mon ami!

The morning we leave for Montreal, I check my bank account first thing. I want to make sure I have plenty of money in my checking account to allow me all of the fun I am guaranteed to have.

This is what I see:

Current balance: 0

$0 means no fun to be had. I check my account summary tab and see that someone has indeed been having fun at my expense – at a Wal-Mart in Charlotte. Dream big thieves, dream big.

$2800 later, they were done redoing their home and called it a day. That was nice. And I think after that whole scenario I have every single Chase Bank number memorized. It took a while to get my money back, but I’m not here to talk about this. Besides, I had my sugar daddy (Cheyne) with me so I wasn’t concerned.

We embark on the 6 hour drive to Montreal and I’m blown away by upstate New York. GORGEOUS folks. Just gorgeous.

It was also ample time for Cheyne to start teaching me French. He began by making me read every sign we passed once we crossed the border. I will admit – I struggled and fought him, but he was a bully and made me continue. And after a while, I started to differentiate the letters and speak words with a French accent instead of Spanish. But thanks to him I can now say “Please open our wine bottle, handsome waiter.” Which is very important to know. A few other choice phrases were taught but there really is no need to go over those.

We are staying with Duncan and Emilie for the weekend. Duncan is a fellow Aggie living in Montreal since graduating and Emilie is his lovely French girlfriend who left France for Montreal years ago.

After a long drive, we needed to recover from such harrowing travels and promptly cracked open some beers and lazed on their patio. The loveliest apartment on the loveliest street with the loveliest patio. I heart Montreal!

Duncan has organized a barbecue with his friends at the park and has taken care of all the items – Cheyne and I just have to show up. Cheyne and I were most amazed, however with his park ready “grill”, which we thought he rigged up himself. Turns out, they sell them like that up there! Oh Canada.

Our gracious hosts:

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US Airways – My Nemesis (continued)

So. So much for all my careful planning and New York Airport Transit ticket buying to meet Cheyne at Grand Central. I prepare myself mentally for the 2 hour bus ride by buying 3 trash magazines that set me back about $17. Worth it.

Then a light bulb flickers on and I recall my very heavy backpack I’ve been schlepping around Europe. I go back to the counter.

“Hi. Since I will be taking the bus, what happens to the bag I checked 2 hours ago?”

“Someone will probably get it and put it on the bus. Don’t worry.” Then I am dismissed as she turns her back on my subsequent questions.

Key word here: probably. I was worried. Especially since this exact thing had just happened to me when coming back from Holland. Sigh. Amazingly, not one single person that works for US Airways in the Philly airport can answer any sort of question you might have about the airline or your flight. I’d be surprised if they could even spell their own names or perform simple addition problems.

Some time later, after perusing the lives of celebrities and bonding with a fellow Pennsylvanian over our plight, they inform us that the bus has arrived and we are to proceed to a certain baggage claim where our bags will be waiting for us to place on the bus. Everyone gets their bag and piles on the bus. I’m still waiting. Guess whose bag didn’t come? You can’t make this stuff up people.

So I find the gate manager by the bus and ask her what my next step is. We go through the song and dance of me being told “I don’t know,” until finally she tells me to file a claim at the counter when I get to LGA and they will deliver my bag when it arrives; probably within 48 hours. A bit of a problem considering that I am meant to leave for Montreal the very next morning. Doesn’t leave much room for error as far as lost bags and what not.

I ask her if I can just go to the holding pen for the US Airways flight and look for my bag there. She looks at me like I’m an alien and explains, as if talking to a child, that there are a series of belts and pulleys in the airport system and there isn’t just “one place” where I can go look. Very well. Maybe it was a dumb question but I was sick and just got off a trans-Atlantic flight! Cut me some slack. You don’t have to be an ass about it.

So then I ask for my ticket stub back. She snaps at me with indignant eyes, “We keep those. Why would we give you your ticket back?”

I pinch the bridge of my nose. It’s better than punching her esophagus, I figure. I slowly explain that in order to file a claim, I will need my ticket stub that has all of my flight information on it. AND since the woman at the counter took my ENTIRE ticket, without giving me anything, I had no information for reference.

What a different tune she started to sing. She apologized and said she had no idea why the other woman took my entire ticket (there seems to be no method of madness in this company) and told me that she would find it and get me my stub. Funny how she can find my ticket but not my bag.

I heave a heavy sigh and climb on the bus. Sick, tired, achy, emotional and bagless. Oh. And the bus has no bathroom. Fail. I curl up on my seat and whimper quietly.

It takes an hour just to get out of Philly.

Then a fight breaks out on the bus. Yes, it’s true. Seemingly mature, grown men and women dove into a verbal lashing that promised to end violently. The front of the bus wanted peace and quiet, and the back, full of Americans and Aussies, were causing a full blown ruckus. A screaming match ensued, and I was right in the middle of it. An unwilling Switzerland, if you will. Sure they were annoying. But I know when to keep my mouth shut. Some battles you know you just won’t win.

So I’m sitting on this bus, eyes darting back and forth waiting for the inevitable glint of a shank slicing through the air, all the while clutching everything inside of me so I won’t throw up/die. Not my finest moment.

Some phrases that were thrown around:

“Not everyone on the bus wants to hear your nonsense.”
“Try having some respect for other people.”
“Why don’t you just turn around and mind your own business!”
“Well I’m used to dealing with children so this is easy!”
“We are trying to make the best of the situation instead of being a sour puss.”

The woman sitting next to me was talking on her cell and kept exclaiming at a very high volume that she couldn’t hear a word that was said cause “the people on this bus won’t shut up,” “i can’t hear you – the gentleman asked them to be quiet and they don’t care, they don’t respect anyone,” etc. I listened to this for about 10 minutes before she actually hung up the phone.

And that was just the beginning. It started to escalate and my eyes got wide when the man in front of me stood up to address the troublemakers in the back. All of the sudden, there was a rumble from the right side of the bus, and the driver pulled over.

We got a flat.

Eff.

It did seem to quiet everyone down though so conflict averted I suppose.

The driver pokes around outside for a bit while we wait on the bus. 15 minutes later, he informs us that ANOTHER bus will be coming from the airport to get us. I laugh at this point. What more can go wrong?

When the bus arrives and we are getting up, someone actually calls out “same seats!” Huh. So I really was on the bus with children.

4 hours later, our uneventful bus ride ends at LGA. My bag is there, and so are Cheyne and Massimo to scoop me up. I crumble into a happy pile of tears. And then throw up.

We were lied to. It is NOT always sunny in Philadelphia.

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US Airways – My Nemesis

*please forgive the lack of pictures in my next couple of posts, but I must tell an important story to which there is no photographic evidence to be had!

—————————————————————————————————————————————————

I never ever thought I’d say I’d be happy to leave Europe, but I was ready. This was for several reasons: the unbearable heat, lack of a/c or slight breeze and sleepless nights in sweaty sheets. I think my happiness was also gently cradled in the fact that I wasn’t returning to Texas, but rather Montreal with my BFF, by way of New York.

Lana and I return together – first to Philadelphia, then changing – her on to a flight to Houston, me on to one bound for New York. The flight from Madrid-Philly was a disaster. I woke up at Lana’s piso feeling like I had the flu, and was sick the entire flight. At least my body waited for all the fun to die before exacting revenge. I slept most of the time, dozing in and out of that dumb movie with Tina Fey and Steve Carrell. And this was 3 hours into the flight because, of course, their Direct TV was not functioning. And we took off 30 minutes late. And I saw the flight attendant kick a puppy.

We arrive back on US soil and are welcomed with open arms. And by open arms I mean barking orders and rough interrogation at customs as to what exactly my travels were about. Ahh it’s nice to be back home. How different from Spain, when upon arrival the customs agent simply glanced at my passport, stamped it, and I carried on with a “bienvenidos” bouncing off my back. I was in white man’s country now – time to leave my Latino illusions behind, as well as any expectations for manners.

We have to claim our bags, go through customs, recheck our bags, and take countless elevators and airport shuttles to get to our next gates. After a tearful goodbye, I arrive at the gate right at boarding time. But…what is this? I see not my gate nor flight number! Am I lost? Am I confused? NO! I am flying US Airways! And so the story begins…

I walk up to a woman with a US Airways uniform. She doesn’t look up. I get her attention and politely show her my ticket, asking what I’m supposed to do, since apparently my gate and flight have been sucked into a vacuum. She glances at my ticket and tells me to go get in line “over there”. I look “over there”, and see a stagnant line of about 20 angry people. That isn’t going to work. I say “Look, I just need to know if my gate has changed. As you can see, I clearly do not have time to stand in line if I am to make my flight.”

“Your flight has been canceled.” I’m told abruptly. “Go stand in line to figure out your next move.”

Well. No reading between the lines on that one. I shuffle my sick self over to the line and listen with bemused indifference as one customer after another bitches out the woman at the desk who is only half heartedly paying attention while she focuses on something clearly more important on her computer. Facebook I think. I smugly smile. Don’t these fools know that you don’t get anything in life by being an ass? I am fully convinced I will be safe and sound on a flight in no time, by just sweetly stroking the ego of whomever I speak with.

I finally get to the front and confidently give her my widest, meekest smile. I kindly explain my situation to which she grabs my ticket, places it in a pile, and says I can take a bus they are chartering that leaves “soon.”

Define “soon.”

“I don’t know. Just wait in this general area and we will make an announcement when it’s here.”

“Well, what about another flight?”

“The next flight to La Guardia doesn’t leave until tomorrow morning.”

I’m effed.

(to be continued…)

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World Cup in Spain

Yo soy espanol espanol espanol!

You have to ask yourself what the chances are of traveling the world and happening to pick the one spot on the globe to win the World Cup.

Pretty slim.

So, I guess I’m pretty lucky.

Being in Madrid as Spain won la copa mundial was borderline apocalyptic. The energy amassed from that night could fuel several trips to the moon I’m sure.

The moment it happened, we were crammed in a tiny bar off of Sol, and brought in the win with champagne raining down and men dancing on top of the bars and leading chants. Spanish flags, colors, wine, tapas, music, cars, water…it was all there.

We spill into the streets, there is dancing, screaming, drinking, honking, crowds  – someone is on their balcony, spraying water from their kitchen sink hose onto the crowd below, people dancing below in the diamond droplets, glistening water rolling off of their smiling faces and painting the cobble stones a slick gray.

If there was anything to climb, it was scaled. Men walking around with coolers full of beer, people shelling out every last Euro in order to get a taste of the excitement, sparklers, TV cameras, red, yellow, flags, wine, music, screaming. I could jump on those waves of energy and ride them for days. It had no beginning and no end.

Every corner was occupied – trash, couples, boxes of wine, cigarettes, blankets, bocadillos. A city as massive as Madrid, and there was no corner unturned. No privacy to be had. The city multiplied and heaved. People poured out of their homes, cities and villages in order to participate in the celebrations. 5AM was 10PM was 2PM. The sun stopped mandating time and Spain commanded the hours of the day.

When Spain wins the World Cup – nothing matters.  🙂

The next day – we welcomed the players back into the city.

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Back in Madrid

Leaving Lonster and San Sebastian was hard. That was why I heavily relied on Chelsea, chips, and wine to get me through. They did.

After my long (but beautiful!) journey back to Madrid, I arrive in the bustling Puerta del Sol at 11pm on a Friday night. Eager anticipation was in the air. Lana scoops me up and carries me away to a birthday party at Dulce’s. Beach theme. There were water guns. It got a bit ugly.

We promptly headed out around midnight for a bar that played only (gulp) rock music. As most of you close to me know, this is a manifestation of my hell. I don’t know why my allergy is so strong, but I literally recoiled when they opened the doors and the cacophony of noise spilled out. So, horrible music… we meet again. I put on my game face and stepped inside.

Surrounded by shots (shots! Shots! Shots! Shots! Shots! Shots! Love that song…) and crazy Europeans, I soon forgot my agony and joined in the revelry.

We were kicked out when they closed (probably around 5am) and headed out onto the street to discuss our next move. Apparently we were being too loud because Lana and I were chatting and laughing away when we suddenly felt water splash on the backs of our legs. We look around in astonishment, our eyes landing on a man on the 3rd floor above us, in his briefs and brandishing an empty water bottle like a sword.

Oh – that’s how it’s gonna be, is it? Lana and I unleashed a fury of words that tumbled off of our tongues and intended to provoke our said “water thrower” into….what, exactly? You see, in my fiery explosion of verbal retaliation I had never actually considered him “coming down and facing me like a man”, which was what I was strongly insisting on.

In a sudden moment of enlightenment, I quiet my voice and look around, to see all of my new friends staring at me with wide eyes. Leave it to the Americans. We were the first, the only, the loudest, the most obnoxious, to react in such a manner. How much of that has to do with the fact that we are from Texas? I may never know. But I still laugh when I picture the surprise on everyone’s faces, realizing that behind these sweet and demure appearances lurk tigers ready to pounce. Ra-ar.

Oh, the sun is up. One more drink then I’m off to bed.

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Sexy San Sebastian

Oh. em. gee. This place is quite possibly heaven. And I say this even after having to sleep on the beach for the first night due to every. single. pension. being full. Completo. Don’t even bother ringing the bell. And this was after checking at least 25 of them out.

I got discouraged and I was weary. And naturally thirsty. When I am feeling any of these emotions (and some select others), I always look for the nearest bar and/or bottle of wine. It’s my coping mechanism.

This is Lonster’s sad face because I am making him drink “again”. Again?! The fact that we stopped is the problem – we are on vacation! Lonster and I have very different ideas about alcohol; in that, I want it all the time, he wants it rarely. I could feel the judgement in his eyes every time I suggested we grab a drink. Luckily I can drink through it.

We finish our bevies and continue searching until dark for a place to stay. To no avail.

Around 10pm I suggest we get some wine and dinner. We wander away from the Parte Viejo and search the other side of the canal. We find a quiet bar with people eating outside (my only requirement – outdoor dining) and Lonster’s “buen provecho” opens the door to a night of craziness with 2 adorable Quebec girls.  Lonster continues searching while I stay behind with our bags, so we don’t have to schlep them all over the city. Code for: I want to stay and drink with my new friends. He bought it. Mwhahahahaha!

He finally turns back empty handed and we realize we will be sleeping on the beach for the evening. My life is so hard.

We continue eating and drinking until the bar shuts down, then grab our mochilas and go out in the town. Yeah. We were those people. I felt like a fool.

I was a bit surprised when all the bars shut down at 3am…early for Spain. And it was raining. And we were supposed to sleep outside. It all looked a bit grim. Plus my flippy floppies had lost all of their traction and every step was a precarious battle with slick, rain-drenched concrete and gravity. Visions of wiping out and cracking my coccyx were dancing in my head. Oy.

We mosy on over to our bed (the beach) and stumble upon a wooden surf shack with a substantial covered porch. Score!

Lonster makes our bed.

50 ft from the beach. Perfect. Even if I only slept for 3 hours due to drunken passerby being simply amazed by the fact that 2 travelers would sleep on the beach.

Lonster woke up super early. There he is!

my view

During his morning hours while I was still sleeping, he took a walk on the beach and saw the following:

  • a couple having sex on the beach amidst onlookers
  • a pigeon get scooped up by a hawk

I don’t know which one is more fascinating.

The next day, the gods of luck are smiling upon us and we find a great, clean and airy room for 35 euros pp with a massive shower. Love.

Our day involved ice cream, finding every Ecuadorian within radius (Lonster loves them), the beach, Lonster making a sand turtle named Leon, walking toward Jesus, and a lovely dinner. Here is our day presented to you with a montage of photos:

hiking up to Jesucristo

a bar on the way, but they wouldn't let me stop

This is our 2nd and last night in San Sebastian, which makes me sad. I am headed back to Madrid, and Lonster is continuing north to France.

While sitting at Jesus’ feet, we saw a huge beach party being set up down below. This is where we went after dinner. Well, first I grabbed a couple of beers from a bar, THEN we made our way to the beach, excited to hear some great music.

Yeah, turns out it was a party for a bunch of 14 year old pre-pubescent teenagers. Not what we had in mind. But never ones to poo poo a situation, we simply went and sat on the beach and passed the night drinking (just me) and amusing ourselves with the provocative public displays of affection so characteristic of the Spanish. Waves, wind, stars, young and forbidden love, reggaeton… these are what make a perfect night.

On our way to the train station the next morning, we stop for cafe con leche and I snap a few shots:

On to Madrid y’all.

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Bilbao and le Guggenheim

The interim from Pamplona to San Sebastian was quick:

We high tailed it back to Vitoria for a much needed shower and sleep. Ahhh sleep. Worth its weight in gold I tell ya.

And who knew Vitoria was SO lovely!?

is there anything more delicious than tree-lines streets?

Shame on you for keeping it from me for so long. Glorious weather, charming architecture, welcoming outdoor cafes and NO tourists! Yippee! I’ve found my haven.

We had a dinner of Chinese (so sick of jamon by now) and scampered off to find a bar for the Spain – Germany game.

The next morning we head to Bilbao for a quick stop at the Guggenheim.

A lot of contemporary art which I’m not into at all. But meh, it’s all about experience, right? Bring it on, steel, rusty wonders…

I saw this exhibit at the MOMA in NYC!

I was most fascinated by the Basque language – Euskara. A bit of background, Euskara PRE-DATES Latin, having already been established by the time the Romans occupied Spain. That’s old. Not only that, the language is completely untraceable and original, with no known roots in any other language. This means its a “language isolate.” Fascinating! Where did this anomaly come from? I heart mysteries.

On our way to San Sebastian!

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